The meaning of ‘Tradition’ – The handing down of a belief, information, legend or custom from generation to generation.  I simply adore food related traditions as I believe most of us do, it’s something that we all hold very close to our hearts, whether it’s that weekly Sunday roast at mums, freshly baked loaf on a mid-week morning, fish Friday at the local chippy or sugar and a spritz of lemon on our Shrove Tuesday pancakes. Regardless of age we all love certain traditions. An annual tradition passed down from my parents is for us to all go foraging through the month of May for what we refer to as ‘Vitochelle’. Vitochelle I hear you say, ‘What on earth are they Carmela’.

For as long as I can remember throughout the month of May we would always be found picking and foraging for what I suppose you would refer to as ‘Hops’ or ‘Wheat Grass’. This tradition was passed onto my father by his parents Giuseppe and Carmela, then onto me. Now I have grasped this one tradition with both hands and all of my heart and now I’m showing my children. Nonna Carmela still has fond memories of picking these green lengthy serpents with their long stems and robust heads. She is now 88 years old so generally leaves the foraging to us and we deliver them to her Bedfordshire home for her to cook up a selection of scrumptious delicacies.

From the first of May the vitochelle can be found on the floor of leafy verges, but before you know it as each day passes through the month, they slowly with great precision wind their way up in between the hedgerow. Twisting and turning as they go. By the end of the month they are peeping above the hedgerows and wave or actually point in a similar fashion to long witch’s fingers, longing to be picked. The vitochelle can be very long indeed but when picking them treat the leggy hops as you would an asparagus , picking the tender top and a little stem. So through the month of May you will without fail find the Sereno family and much of the older generation of Bedford foraging and no doubt due to passion and hunger falling in ditches. Without fail I will always come home with a basket full of vitochelle and covered from top to toe with bumpy, raw stinging nettle rashes, (I am know for never dressing appropriately for an occasion).

Vitochelle resemble a young asparagus holding a slightly bitter taste. I simply snap off the first 6 inches or so. Once home wash them well and treat them as you would asparagus. Delicious fried with a little oil, garlic and chili, fried off and layered into a frittata, added to a ricotta tart or pickled in a combination of garlic, vinegar and extra virgin olive oil. Just delicious. I love frying them off and turning them into a spring pesto that can then be used throughout the month. Spooned through pasta or risotto, spread liberally in between a lunchtime panino or slathered onto a bruschetta and topped with Parma ham. Lots of possibilities, however here is my ‘Vitochelle Pesto’ for you to try.

Vitochelle Pesto – Wheat Grass Pesto

200g Vitochelle (washed)

60g Pine-nuts

80g Parmesan

1 large garlic clove, peeled, halved

Small bunch Fresh Basil leaves

Salt to season

Olive Oil as required

 

  1. Pan fry the vitochelle for 5 minutes in a little extra virgin olive oil. You can substitute the green serpents for asparagus if you prefer and obviously for ease.
  2. Once pan-fried place the vitochelle into a food processor along with the pine-nuts (un-toasted), grated Parmesan, garlic, basil, 2 tbsp. olive oil and a pinch of salt and pepper. Blitz for 10 seconds.
  3. Now add the remaining olive oil and blitz until you have a dropping consistency. Taste and season accordingly. I would normally use extra virgin olive oil to make pesto as I do love the peppery notes, however the vitochelle are a little bitter so fully benefit from a lighter olive oil.
  4. Store in a sterilized jar for up to 30 days in the fridge. Keep the pesto topped up with olive oil and remember no double dipping.